Cliff Dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park
While staying in Durango, Co we took a day trip to Mesa Verde National Park on March 19, 2022. It was a forty-minute drive to the Mesa Verde National Park Visitor off US-160, and then another thirty-minute drive to Far View Lodge. At Far View Lodge, the park divides into two sections: Wetherill Mesa and Chapin Mesa. Since it was March, and still winter, the Wetherill Mesa section was closed so we could only visit the Chapin Mesa section, but there was still lots to see and it was worth the trip.
Mesa Verde National Park History
According to the NPS, Mesa Verde National Park was created in 1906 to preserve the archeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people both atop the mesas and the cliff dwellings. The park includes over 4,500 archeological sites with only 600 of those being cliff dwellings.
It was very fascinating to learn about the Ancestral Pueblo people and their homes and see the changes in their architecture over long periods of time. People settled in Mesa Verde about 550 AD where they first built pit houses (shown below). Pit houses were small clustered villages dug into the ground atop the mesas.
Around 750 AD they began building houses above ground one against another with a pit house or two in front. The pit houses then evolved into kivas (shown below). Kivas were bigger more ornate pit houses used for religious and social purposes, and you entered using a ladder through a hole in the roof.
By 1000 AD, architectural skills had advanced to stone masonry, but by about 1225 AD, there was a major shift. People started building and living back in the cliff alcoves and these are what Mesa Verde is famous for.
Our Adventure
We started our adventure with a picnic lunch near the Spruce Tree Terrace. There was still snow on the ground but the sun was out and the park was relatively empty which made for a nice picnic.
After our lunch we walked over to the Spruce Tree Terrace, and WOW! Even from a distance, the Spruce Tree House was remarkable. Unfortunately, due to it still being technically the end of their winter season, we were unable to take the tour (closed) which was a bummer. The Spruce Tree House is the best-preserved cliff dwelling in the park, and I would have loved to see it close up. From Spruce Tree Terrace we hiked the upper section (out and back) of the Petroglyph Point trail as the lower half was closed for the winter.
Next, we drove the Mesa Top Loop and listened to the audio tour. Make sure you download the “Mesa Verde National Park” podcast from your favorite podcast platform before you get to the park as the cell reception is poor and you won’t be able to download it. The audio tour explains all the stops along the Mesa Top Loop which included views of the Square Tower House, Pit Houses, and Cliff Palace.
The Square Tower House has eight kivas and at least 60 rooms. The earliest preservation work began in 1919, and the Square Tower House has undergone stabilization treatments nearly every decade since the 1930s. The Cliff Palace is the largest cliff dwelling in the park. Unfortunately, since it was still winter the Cliff Palace Loop was also closed along with the tours but at least we were still able to see it from a distance.
Planning a trip to Colorado? It is worth the trip to visit Mesa Verde National Park. You will need at least two days if you want to check out both the Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa loops. Make sure you book your cliff dwelling tours way in advance as they sell out.
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